It should be the kitchen nightmare to end all nightmares: a restaurant blacked out with no electricity, chefs scampering to build fires while whiney diners run off and vent their fury online about collapsing souffles. But what if you were bonkers enough to force this regimented dogma on yourself, and voluntarily turn off all power in your restaurant for the whole night? Who would be enough of a masochist to expose themselves to this torture?
Matt Orlando, head chef at Amass in Copenhagen, sees purpose where others see torture. His restaurant on Refshaleøen’s old industrial island, on the fringes of hippie town Christiania and in sight of the Little Mermaid, has a happy habit of testing the limits: he turns leftover bread into chips, melts … Read the rest